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 Turkish Wines

 

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Good wine has been produced in Turkey for millennia, and still is.

Several of Anatolia's climatic regions, some with volcanic soil (such as Cappadocia), are suitable for producing wine grapes. The grapes are mostly local traditional varieties such as Öküzgözü (Ox Eye) and Bogazkere for reds, although Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are making their appearance, as are Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

The peoples of the Byzantine Empire enjoyed their wines and developed careful cultivation methods for their grapes.

Under the Ottoman Empire, the sultan's Muslim subjects largely abstained, but his Christian and Jewish subjects continued to make and drink wine.

With the fall of the empire (1923) and founding of the European-style Turkish Republic, many citizens of Greek heritage moved to Greece, but in the secular republic wine-making was encouraged.

Both Tekel, the government-owned monopoly company, and a few favored vintners such as Kavaklidere, produced simple table wines. Imported wines were rare, and very expensive because of high import duties.

In the 1990s, after changes in the laws governing alcoholic beverages, small local vintners began to make varietal wines of good quality. The best wines are often from the well-run vineyards of wealthy industrial and commercial families. Look for labels bearing the marks Corvus, Kayra, Sarafin and Sevilen.

Simple table wines such as Kavak and Çankaya (white), Dikmen (red), Lâl (rosé/blush) and Villa Doluca (white and red) are drinkable and among the less expensive, but because discerning (and wealthy) Turkish wine-drinkers are only a small market, the better vintages are surprisingly expensive.

In Cappadocia, the Kocabag (KOH-jah-bah) and Turasan (TOO-rah-ahn) labels are two to try.

High taxes also play their part in the high price of wine. The tax just about doubles the cost of a bottle of inexpensive table wine. There is also a large illegal, untaxed and uncontrolled wine industry that competes unfairly with the legitimate vintners.

In Istanbul's best restaurants, the cost of a lavish meal is often less than the cost of the wine that accompanies it.

Although the governing center-right AKP party denies that it acts against those who drink alcoholic beverages, the cost of enjoying a glass of wine—or indeed any alcoholic beverage—has risen during their tenure in office.

If you enjoy wine with dinner, don't be dismayed. You can have it, it will be pretty good, and it won't ruin your budget, but it won't be cheap, either.

During the holy month of Ramazan, please observe the traditional customs. More...


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Bottles of Turkish Wine, Istanbul

Bottles of Turkish wine in an Istanbul store.