a village dish made of flat lavaş (lah-VAHSH)
bread folded over various ingredients
then baked on a griddle, has been—like börek—a
popular light meal for centuries in
The rage for "authentic Turkish
cuisine" has now brought it to
the cities, where several restaurants
specialize in making it.
In most, a cook sits at a low table
in full view of diners, rolling out
the dough with a broomstick-handle-thin
rolling pin, then spreads the nearly
one-meter-diameter rounds of paper-thin
dough on a circular griddle to bake.
If left to bake alone, the dough becomes lavaş.
For gözleme, ingredients
are spread atop the bread and it is
folded over them.
You can order gözleme:
karışık = with everything
kaşar peynirli = with
yellow cow's milk cheese
katmer = plain
kıymalı = with ground
patatesli = with mashed
peynirli = with white
sheep's milk cheese (feta)
good place for gözleme is
wherever you see women making it
which, these days, is not uncommon.
—by Tom Brosnahan
A cook spreads
paper-thin dough on the griddle
to bake into lavaş bread
or, with filling, gözleme.