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19th Century Renewal When I made my first trip to Turkey and stumbled across the Çiçek Pasaji (Flower Passage) in the 1960s, restaurateurs rolled empty beer barrels into the passage, balanced white marble slabs on top, surrounded the makeshift table with little three-legged stools, loaded the slab with Turkish meze (hors-d'oeuvres), and brought on the drinks. It was simply wonderful--and cheap! Then the roof fell in--literally--and the building was closed for restoration. When it re-opened, it looked like this. (See next photo for more...) |
