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Şirince is
a beautiful hill town only 8 km (5
miles) east
of Selçuk,
near Ephesus,
in the Aegean hinterland
south of Izmir (map).
It's famous for its olive oil, fruit
wines, other natural products, and
its charming, restful boutique
hotels.
A dozen small restaurants cater
to day-trippers, hotel guests, and
locals alike.
Though tourism has arrived, Şirince
is still a village.
Here are the sounds of Şirince:
birds chirp, donkeys bray, goats baa,
mourning doves coo, dogs bark, roosters
crow, children play. A tractor passes.
The call
to prayer from the village's
single minaret is a scratchy recording.
During the day in the warm, busy tourism
months, it's easy to miss that Şirince
is a village. Buses roar up the hill
(but aren't allowed to enter the village),
groups wander clicking cameras and
jingling money.
But in the morning and evening,
when the day-trippers are not around,
or at any time out of high season,
you'll know at once that Şirince is
still a village.
A number of village houses have
been beautifully restored and opened
as inns,
with comfortable double rooms, as well
as suites for families, and even rental
houses for longer stays.
This makes it a fine place
to stay, and a congenial
base for your explorations throughout
the Ephesus region. More...
If you don't stay overnight, go to Şirince for
a stroll, photography,
a bit of cooler air, a lunch or dinner in
one of the many small restaurants,
sampling the local fruit wines.
Besides wines, you'll find many local and organic products:
vinegar, honey, soaps, and traditional
sweeteners called pekmez made
from a variety of fruits. Nar
ekşisi is a tasty vinegar
substitute made from pomegranate juice.
Some say the Orthodox Christian Greeks
who lived here during the Ottoman
Empire were famed for
the excellence
of their wine. The Muslim Turks
who moved here from Thessaloniki in
1924 re-started wine-making using local
fruits, including apple,
apricot, banana, blackberry, blueberry,
creamberry, mulberry (black, and
white), mandarin orange, melon, orange,
peach, quince, sour (Morello) cherry
and strawberry. You can taste the
results and judge for yourself when
you visit. They sell red, white and
rosé, dry and sweet.
A few local producers have switched
from the local vines, which in
fact produce table grapes, to Turkey's
better wine grapes such as Narince.
The story goes that Şirince was formerly
inhabited by Ottoman Greeks
and named Kırkınca ("Forty-ish"),
which the locals pronounced Çirkince,
which means "sort of ugly" (which
it certainly is not).
During the exchange of populations
following World War I, Turks from Thessaloniki,
Greece were moved here (1924). They
changed the name to Şirince (shee-REEN-jeh, "sort
of sweet, charming").
Here's a historical note on Mr
Zeki Çelikçi,
a Şirince master craftsman who
carved wooden spoons by hand. More...
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