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Bright Sun
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Alpine forests? Tea
plantations? Billions of hazelnuts?
World's oldest cherry
orchards?
Turkey's Black Sea coast comes
as a surprise.
The sky is often grey but
the land is green from plentiful
rain. Fat dairy cattle munch
lush grass and produce the country's
best milk and butter. Fresh sardines
are a delicacy.
The Black Sea coast (maps)
is never crowded because cloud
is more common than sun, and the sea
water is chilly. But that's fine with
the adventurous types who come here
for a few days to savor its deep history,
its dramatic beauty, its special
cuisine, and its prime legend: Jason led
his Argonauts along this coast
in quest of the Golden Fleece.
Concentrate on the coast east of Sinop,
a fortified town with a long history.
(The only exception west of Sinop is
the small, beautiful seacoast town
of Amasra [not Amasya],
with its own dramatic fortress and
history.)
The coast's prime destination is Trabzon (Trebizond).
Other towns worth a look, or good for
an overnight are Ordu and Giresun. Samsun is
big, bustling and mostly modern, with
lots of services but little to see.
Starting from Amasya,
you can drive 130 km (81 miles, 2 hours)
north to Samsun,
then continue 365 km (227 miles, 6
hours) to Trabzon,
enjoying the scenery, all in one day,
but two days is obviously more relaxed,
and three gives you the time to explore
in detail.
From Trabzon, head up into the mountains
to the alpine spa and
hiking village of Ayder,
then up onto the Anatolian
plateau with Erzurum as
your goal. The short route is via Gümüshane
and Bayburt, the longer and more interesting
route is via Rize, Hopa, Artvin and
Yusufeli in the Kaçkar
Mountains.
Click
here for maps of Turkey's
Black Sea Coast.
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Above, the
dramatic Black Sea coast,
where Jason and the Argonauts sought
the Golden Fleece.
Below, tea
bushes flourish on a
hillside near Rize.
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