The Citadel (Hisar), Ankara, Turkey

You can spot Ankara's lofty Citadel (Hisar, Kale) from any point in the city with a clear view. This was the original town, with foundations no doubt dating to Hittite times about 3000 years ago.

The outer walls you see now were built in the 800s by the Byzantine emperor Michael II. The inner keep (iç kale) walls survive from the 600s.

You enter from an irregular plaza on which you'll find the Çengel Han Rahmi M Koç Museum, and the street going downhill to the nearby Museum of Anatolian Civilisations. and, in the other direction, to the Ahi Serafettin Mosque and Tomb (Arslanhane Camii, 1290).

Enter the Hisar through the Finger Gate (Parmak Kapisi), also called the Clock Gate (Saatli Kapi) because of the public clock on the white octagonal tower. After passing through the portal, note two good restaurants on the left of the small plaza: the Kale Washington and, just beyond it, the Zenger Pasa Konagi.

The area within the walls is, surprisingly, a Turkish village—right here in the very heart of Turkey's sprawling modern capital city. Not much has changed in the Citadel for centuries.

Walk straight from the gate up Kalekapisi Sokak to reach the Asmali Restaurant, the Angora House Hotel, and the Kinaci Restaurant. Opposite the Kinaci Restaurant, not the row of marble sarcophagi or fountains, column drums, and bits of other ancient stonework (some inscribed) that were incorporated into the keep walls by later builders.

Walk up past the Kinaci Restaurant and turn left to enter the stone tower (the one with the bits of sarcophagus in its walls). If the And Cafe is open, climb up to its terrace at the top of the tower for spectacular views of the northern parts of Ankara.

The small mosque in the Citadel, the Alaettin Camii, was originally built in the 1100s, but has been repaired and restored many times since.

Keep walking ever upward to a flight of concrete stairs leading to the Sark Kulesi (SHARK koo-leh-see, Eastern Tower), from which there is a panoramic view of the Turkish capital, as there is also from the Ak Kale (AHK kah-leh, White Fortress), the northern tower in the walls.

Along with your visit to the Citadel you should plan a visit to the nearby Museum of Anatolian Civilisations, and also perhaps to the Çengel Han Rahmi M Koç Museum and the Ahi Serafettin Mosque (Arslanhane Camii, 1290).

Museum of Anatolian Civilisations

Roman Ankara

Anitkabir, Mausoleum of Atatürk

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Central Anatolia

Parmak Kapisi (Finger Gate) into the Citadel, Ankara, Turkey

Above, the Parmak Kapisi (Finger Gate) into the Citadel in Ankara, Turkey.
Below, within the walls is a Turkish village.
Bottom, bits of old marble sarcophagi or fountains incorporated into the walls by later builders.

Kalekapisi Sokak, Ankara, Turkey

Marble Fragments in Citadel Walls, Ankara, Turkey