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The
most famous sight in Turkey's Cappadocia region—and
rightly so—is the Göreme
Open-Air Museum in the Göreme
Valley only a 15-minute walk (1.5
km, 1 mile) from Göreme
Town and a short ride (6.5
km, 4 miles) from Ürgüp.
The Göreme
Valley holds the region's
best collection of painted
cave-churches. Medieval
orthodox Christian monks (1000-1200
AD) carved the caves from the soft volcanic
stone and decorated them with
elaborate Byzantine frescoes.
The
valley, and other troglodyte ("cave-dweller")
habitations in Cappadocia, may have
been inhabited since Hittite times,
but Göreme is
known for its thousand-year-old churches.
It's
best to visit as early in
the morning as possible
because the summer heat is
intense at midday. Also, tour groups
fill the small churches by mid-morning
and it's more difficult to enjoy
them.
For
one thing, groups may block
the entrance,
which cuts off the
natural light, which is the only
sort of light in the churches (unless
you bring a flashlight/electric
torch).
Most of the frescoes in the churches
have been damaged—many of them
badly damaged—by wind, water,
weather, earthquake, and shepherd boys
who sought refuge in the caves and
used the faces of the figures as targets
for pebble attacks, having been taught
that images were sinful. But the beauty
of the churches and their decoration
is still apparent.
The best-preserved frescoes are in
the Karanlik
Kilise (Dark Church),
which is subject to an additional admission
fee (YTL10). These paintings were restored
at great expense, and I am all in favor
of the additional fee: it helps pay
for the restoration, and it keeps out
most other visitors. Only those who
are truly interested in the art will
pay the additional fee, so the church
is usually not crowded.
The Tokali
Kilise (Buckle
Church) is outside of the main
valley enclosure, down the hill toward
the town
of Göreme a
few steps, on the right-hand
side. Don't miss it! The paintings
are fine, and it's already included
in your admission ticket to the Göreme
Open-Air Museum.
The
Göreme Open-Air Museum is
open every day from 08:30 am to 19:00
(7 pm) for YTL10.
In the winter months, it closes earlier
(17:00/5 pm). Parking costs another
YTL2.
Avanos
Göreme
Town
Guided
Tours from Ankara
Uçhisar
Ürgüp
Hot-air
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Underground
Cities
Cappadocia
Central
Anatolia
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Above,
look
closely and you'll see
two people sitting beneath
the tree in the midst of Göreme
Open-Air Museum.
Below, detail from
the apse of the Karanlik
Kilise.
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