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 Beysehir, Turkey

 

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Beysehir, the "city of the prince," is 77 km west of Konya on the shore of Beysehir Lake. Travelers stop here for two reasons mainly: to visit the wonderful Esrefoglu Mosque and to dine on fresh fish from the lake.

The Esrefoglu Camii (esh-REHF-oh-loo mosque; 1296-1299) is the finest example of the Seljuk Turkish flat-wooden-ceiling and wooden column-style of mosque construction in Anatolia. As the plaque in front reads: "It is a wooden mosque museum in terms of its superior wood and tile workmanship."

A grand Seljuk-style carved stone portal leads to a beautifully tiled interior portal, then into the main hall. This lofty space is a forest of tree-trunk columns supporting a flat roof of tree-trunk rafters. In the center is a pool, open to the sky above when it was built, but now covered with a glass roof to keep out the elements.

Carved wood, inlaid and painted wood decorate the beams and rafters. The capitals of the columns are carved as well.

At the far end the mimber (prayer niche) is a masterwork of Seljuk light-and-dark blue tilework, especially the mukarnas (nichework) at the top.

The mosque has been beautifully restored, and is a delight to explore.

It's certainly worth stopping in Beysehir to see the Esrefoglu Camii if you're passing through. Visitors to Konya should consider making it a morning excursion: you climb from the Konya plain into the mountains, over passes of more than 1500 meters (5000 feet) elevation, through fertile farming country (sugar beets are a prime crop), past three small old ruined caravanserais, and down to the broad lake with jagged mountains forming a backdrop on its far side.

For lunch, stop at any of the small lakeside restaurants to enjoy the local çipura fish.

Distances to & From Beysehir:

Afyon: 148 km (92 miles) NW, 3 hours

Antalya: 232 km (144 miles) S, 4 hours

Denizli (Pamukkale): 327 km (203 miles) W, 5 hours

Egirdir: 141 km (88 miles) W, 2.5 hours

Isparta: 177 km (110 miles) W, 3 hours

Konya: 77 km (48 miles) E, 1.25 hours


Seljuk Turkish Architecture

Konya

Antalya

Central Anatolia

 

Esrefoglu Mosque, Beysehir, Turkey

Above, the grand interior of the Esrefoglu Camii.
Below, the mukarnas at the top of the mihrab.

Mukarnas, Esrefoglu Mosque, Beysehir, Turkey