Beyoglu (Istanbul) Cafes & Bars

Since Ottoman times, Istanbul's Beyoglu (BEY-oh-loo) district has been the best place for a drink or an evening's entertainment. Here's the short list of my favorite places:

Kaktüs Cafe, half a block south of Istiklal Caddesi on Imam Adnan Sokak across from Cadde-i Kebir. Usually packed with the literary chic set, it's bright, noisy, and lively. A beer costs less than US$2, a light meal US$4 to US$8. Sidewalk tables.

Cadde-i Kebir, half a block south of Istiklal Caddesi on Imam Adnan Sokak across the street from Kaktüs Cafe. The cafe's name is Turkish for Grande Rue (Big Street). Fairly sedate, prices are about the same as at Kaktüs. Sidewalk tables here, too.

Urban, Kartal Sokak 6/A, a block southeast of Galatasaray Square, is a back street cafe-bar with cool stone walls (its back room was a cistern in Byzantine times) and cooler people: aesthetes reading European architectural and literary magazines or newspapers, couples drinking in one another with their eyes and whispering earnestly. The music is classical, the list of caffeine and alcoholic drinks long and varied; sandwiches, salads, omelets and simple meat plates satisfy for US$3 to US$6.

Tarihi Pano Saraphanesi, corner of Kalyoncu Kullugu and Hamalbasi streets across from the British Consulate-General, was founded in 1898 by an Ottoman Greek named Panayotis Papadopoulos. It was one of many similar wineshops in Beyoglu, which had many Ottoman Greek residents at the time. Recently renovated, it's a hotspot for up-and-coming Turkish professionals. Drinks cost US$1.50 to US$3 or more; snacks and light meals as well.

Sofyali Sokak, a side street off of Asmalimescit Sokak (which is off of Istiklal Caddesi) has several good, cool artists' and actors' cafes including Galatea Restaurant and Wine Bar at Sofyali Sokak 16; Kum Saati ('Hourglass'); and Cep Sanat ('Pocket Art') at the corner of Sofyali and Jurnal sokaks. Cruise them all and pick the one that appeals to you.

K. V. (keh-VEH), is at the southern end of Istiklal Caddesi opposite the upper station of the little two-station Tünel underground train. Besides its sophisticated clientele and long menu of coffees, teas (including herbal), drinks, light meals and desserts, in summer K. V. spills out into the 19th-century passageway with sidewalk tables and potted trees and shrubs a posh, arty cafŽ offering coffees, teas, pastries, light meals and cool recorded music to a sophisticated, well-heeled crowd. Plan to spend US$5 or US$6 for a drink and snack, more if you're really hungry and thirsty.

Babylon, Seyhbender Sokak 3, off Sofyali Sokak near Tunel, is among the city's most popular jazz clubs.

Cafe Gramofon (tel +90-212-293-0786), at the southern end of Istiklal Caddesi in Tunel Square, is a restaurant featuring live music (a cover charge of about US$14 applies during the performance.

Kehribar (tel +90-212-231-4100) in the Divan Oteli one long block north of Taksim Square along Cumhuriyet Caddesi, has smooth jazz, luxury surroundings and expensive drinks.

Harry's Jazz Bar (tel +90-212-225-7000), in the Hyatt Regency Istanbul Hotel, a few steps from the Kehribar, also has good jazz, often hotter, posh surroundings, expensive drinks, and metal detectors at the door to keep out the ballistic hardware.

Tepe Lounge Bar (tel +90-212-251-4696) in Taksim Square at Hotel The Marmara, has jazz most evenings from 10.30 pm to 1 am.

Kervansaray (tel +90-212-247-1630), on the northern side of the Istanbul Hilton arcade-entrance, offers the classic folk-and-belly dancing show your parents watched when they visited Istanbul 30 years ago, and what Golden Age tour groups watch today. You'll pay US$75 for a full dinner with drinks and the show.

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K.V. (keh-veh), in Tünel Square at the southern end of Istiklal Caddesi, is great for a light meal or coffee.