Markiz Pastanesi, Istanbul, Turkey

A century ago, when Istiklal Caddesi was still Beyoglu's Grande Rue de Péra, the Lebon pastry shop was among the most fashionable places for the genteel ladies of Péra to meet for tea and cakes.

Designed by Alexandre Vallaury, architect of the Pera Palas Oteli, its fine decorative Art Nouveau faience panels depicting the Four Seasons (1905) are the work of J A Arnoux. Produced in France by Ch. Boulanger at Choisy-Le-Roi, all four panels were apparently shipped to Istanbul, but only Spring and Autumn arrived intact. They were installed here in the 1920s.

Bought and renovated by Avdeis Ohanyan Çakir in 1940, it opened as Markiz and served as a gathering-place for prominent writers, intellectuals and society for decades.

Though sadly down-at-heels when I first arrived in Istanbul in 1968, Markiz was still open and serving, but it closed in 1977, and was shuttered for 26 years, just sitting there, looking forlorn as legal battles raged over its fate.

Declared a valuable work of art by Istanbul's historic preservation authorities, it was ordered preserved in its original design. Good! But this would take money—lots of it—and that didn't come along until the Aksoy group of companies put up US$6 million during the 1990s as a benevolent gesture to a symbol of Istanbul's storied past.

Late in 2003, its exquisite Art Nouveau interior beautifully restored, Markiz was again open to all and hosting Beyoglu's genteel society.

Look for it on Istiklal Caddesi near Tünel Square, opposite the Hotel Richmond and the palatial Russian Consulate.

Cafe Markiz
Istiklal Caddesi No. 360-362,
Beyoglu, Istanbul, Turkey
Tel +90 (212) 245 8394

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Markiz Pastanesi, Beyoglu, Istanbul, Turkey

Above, mother and daughter admire the exquisite pastries at Markiz.
Below, its sumptuous Art Nouveau faïence panels.

Markiz Pastanesi Interior, Beyoglu, Istanbul, Turkey