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A century ago, when Istiklal
Caddesi was still Beyoglu's Grande
Rue de Péra, the
Lebon pastry shop was
among the most fashionable places
for the genteel ladies of Péra
to meet for tea and cakes.
Designed by Alexandre Vallaury,
architect of the Pera
Palas Oteli, its fine decorative
Art Nouveau faience panels depicting
the Four Seasons (1905) are the work
of J A Arnoux. Produced in France by
Ch. Boulanger at Choisy-Le-Roi, all
four panels were apparently shipped
to Istanbul, but only Spring and Autumn
arrived intact. They were installed
here in the 1920s.
Bought and renovated by Avedis Ohanyan
Çakir in 1940, it opened as Markiz and
served as a gathering-place for prominent
writers, intellectuals and society
for decades.
Though sadly down-at-heels when I
first arrived in Istanbul in
1968, Markiz was still
open and serving, but it closed in
1977, and was shuttered for 26 years,
just sitting there, looking forlorn
as legal battles raged over its fate.
Declared a valuable work of
art by Istanbul's historic
preservation authorities,
it was ordered preserved in its original
design. Good! But this would take money—lots
of it—and that didn't come along
until the Aksoy group of companies
put up US$6 million during
the 1990s as a benevolent gesture to
a symbol of Istanbul's storied past.
Late in 2003, its
exquisite Art
Nouveau interior beautifully
restored, Markiz was
again open to all and hosting Beyoglu's
genteel society.
Alas, it was not to be. The new Markiz
didn't prosper. It is now a fast-food
restaurant called Yemek
Kulübü (Meal Club), with
papers stuck to its front window advertising
cheap daily specials.
No matter, the luscious interior is
intact, and you can still enjoy it.
Look for it on Istiklal
Caddesi near Tünel
Square, opposite the Hotel
Richmond and the palatial Russian
Consulate.
Cafe Markiz (alias
Yemek Kulübü)
Istiklal
Caddesi No. 360-362,
Beyoglu, Istanbul, Turkey
Tel +90 (212) 245 8394
Beyoglu
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