Nevizade Sokak Tavernas, Istanbul

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Nevizade Sokak, off Sahne Sokak near the Çiçek Pasaji and Galatasaray Square in Istanbul's Beyoglu district, is chock full of meyhanes (Turkish tavernas) serving good food and copious booze at outdoor tables in a bright, active, noisy atmosphere.

It's great fun with a Turkish friend, though a bit daunting without.

It's really a friendly scene, women are welcomed, and the waiters will do their best to include you. After a few minutes you're certain to have made some new friends among the Turkish and foreign diners.

Your Nevizade Sokak dinner may be the most memorable of your entire Turkish trip. Choose any restaurant. If you're stumped, try Asirli, Boncuk, Çaglar, Kadri'nin Yeri, or Imroz.

Order several plates of meze (Turkish hors d'oeuvres and salads), then a main course of meat or fish, and dessert if you have room.

With white wine or raki, you may pay TL50 per person for a full meat dinner with drinks, or up to twice that much for seafood (ask fish prices before you order!)