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Istanbul has good fish
restaurants like those in Kumkapı,
but many are expensive.
Want cheap
fish? This map shows
you where you can find these cheap
fish eateries:
Down at the Eminönü end of the Galata
Bridge you can get a great, fresh,
filling fish
sandwich and some salad
for only a few liras—a wonderful Istanbul
tradition. More...
Karaköy Fish Market
At the Beyoğlu end
of the
Galata
Bridge, west (Golden
Horn) side in Karaköy there is a fish market, and scattered
through the fish market are tiny, very
basic fish eateries.
The chef toils
over an open griddle or grill frying
fish, whole or filleted, sliding them
onto plates with some salad and handing
them to a waiter who serves you at
a low table-and-stool. Fresh bread,
soft drinks (no alcohol), low prices:
less than
TL20
for a fish lunch or dinner.
One caution: sometimes the chef, anticipating
a rush of customers, will fry up lots
of fillets well in advance, then heat
and serve these pre-cooked
fillets when
customers arrive. These pre-cooked
fillets are not as tasty or tender
as freshly-cooked fillets. Look at
the grill, and if there's a pile of
pre-cooked fillets, perhaps you want
to choose a different restaurant.
Kumkapı Fish Market
No doubt you have heard about Istanbul's historic Kumkapı district,
cluttered with (fairly expensive) fish
restaurants.
Well, if you pass through
Kumkapı and cross the busy shore boulevard
(Kennedy Caddesi) to the waterfront you'll
see the Kumkapı Fish Market (Balık
Pazarı).
Among the fishmongers—as
at Karaköy—are small eateries frying
or grilling fresh fish and serving
it at small tables. It's all very basic,
but so are the prices. Enjoy!
If you want fancier surroundings,
some of the white-cloth restaurants
here have tables set right at the edge
of the sea—something you don't get
around the meydan (plaza)
in Kumkapı.
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