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Bright Sun

Read about some
romantic drama
at Topkapı...

Home of the Ottoman sultans for nearly 400 years, Topkapı Sarayı ("Palace of the Cannon Gate"—map) was the seraglio, the heart of the vast Ottoman Empire, ruled by the monarch who lived in Topkapı's hundreds of rooms with hundreds of concubines, children, and white and black servants.

Because Topkapı is No. 1 on everyone's list of Istanbul sights, get there when it opens (09:00 am, till 17:00 [5 pm]; closed Tuesday; TL25 admission fee for adults) and go straight to the Harem (additional TL15 admission fee).

Seriously consider buying an Istanbul Museum Pass for your visit to Topkapı. If you plan to visit Hagia Sophia and one other of the six included museums (such as the Mosaic Museum or Chora Church), it'll save you time and money. More...

Once accessible only by guided tour, you can now wander through the Harem on your own, as you choose; but only a certain number of visitors are allowed at one time, so go there first to avoid waiting.

After wandering through the Harem you can stroll the palace's spacious grounds and four courtyards at your leisure.

Don't miss the Treasury in the 3rd courtyard, with its incredible gems, gold, and works of art.

(For a bittersweet romantic scene that actually happened at Topkapı, see my Bright Sun, Strong Tea excerpt entitled "Tears at Topkapı.")

Just down the hill to the west of the palace are the Istanbul Archeological Museums, and beyond them is shady Gülhane Park, a fine place for a stroll or a soothing glass of tea.

When you're done at Topkapı, head for Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia), right next door, and the Blue Mosque, next door to Ayasofya on the Byzantine Hippodrome.