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Bright Sun
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of the Ottoman sultans for
nearly 400 years, Topkapı
Sarayı ("Palace
of the Cannon Gate"—map)
was the seraglio, the
heart of the vast Ottoman
Empire, ruled by the monarch
who lived in Topkapı's hundreds
of rooms with hundreds of concubines,
children, and white and black servants.
The domes of Topkapı's
Harem dominate
the Golden
Horn.
Because Topkapı
is No. 1 on everyone's
list of Istanbul
sights, get there when it
opens (09:00 am, till 17:00
[5 pm]; closed Tuesday; TL20
admission fee for adults) and go
straight to the Harem (additional
TL15
admission fee).
Once
accessible only by guided
tour, you can now wander
through the Harem on your own,
as you choose; but only a certain
number of visitors are allowed
at one time, so go there first to avoid
waiting.
After
wandering through the Harem you can
stroll the palace's spacious
grounds and four
courtyards at your leisure.
Don't
miss the Treasury in the 3rd
courtyard, with its incredible gems,
gold, and works of art.
Topkapı Palace as
seen from the Bosphorus.
(For
a bittersweet romantic scene that
actually happened at Topkapı, see
my Bright
Sun, Strong Tea excerpt entitled "Tears
at Topkapı.")
Just down the hill to the west of
the palace are the Istanbul
Archeological Museums, and beyond them is shady Gülhane
Park, a fine place for a stroll or
a soothing glass of tea.
When
you're done at Topkapı, head for Ayasofya (Hagia
Sophia), right next door,
and the Blue
Mosque, next door to Ayasofya
on the Byzantine Hippodrome.
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