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Istanbul's Teutonic
pseudo-castle railway station on
the Asian shore of the Bosphorus is
the terminus for trains to
and from Asian Turkey, including
the all-important Istanbul-Ankara
route, as well as trains to Kayseri, Konya,
and points east and south.
Haydarpasa Station has ticket sales
offices, a rather dull waiting room,
shops selling drinks and snacks, Left
Luggage/Baggage lockers, and a classic
railroad restaurant, the Gar
Lokantasi, offering decent
traditional Turkish cuisine and drinks
at reasonable rates. A three-course
dinner with one drink need cost no
more than YTL18.
A light meal can be had for YTL10.
Clientele in the Gar Lokantasi is
a coterie of local regulars
rather than travelers, 95% male, chatting
over meze and
glasses of raki.
It's a mellow scene. Women are
completely welcome. There's a fair
amount of cigarette smoke.
The waiters take good care of everybody.
Ferries from Karaköy (Galata),
at the northern end of the Galata
Bridge, cross the Bosphorus frequently
to Haydarpasa and Kadiköy.
Most ferries stop at both docks. Any
ferry designated
Haydarpasa stops
right at the station's own ferry dock.
If you end up in Kadiköy by
mistake, it's only a brief taxi ride
or 15-minute walk north to the station.
Suburban
trains (banliyö treni) depart
Haydarpasa and travel southeast
along the Sea
of Marmara shore
as far as Gebze, not far from Izmit. More...
The neoclassical Haydarpasa Station
building, a
gift to the Sultan from Kaiser Wilhelm
II, was built by the Anatolia-Baghdad
Corporation between 1906 and 1908.
Its foundation is 1100 wooden piles,
each 21 meters (69 feet) long, driven
into the mushy shore by steam hammer.
Haydarpasa was an important link in
the railway chain of the Kaiser's Berlin-to-Baghdad
railway scheme, part of the German
Empire's strategic Drang nach
Osten ("Drive to the East")
during the later 19th century.
If you're a train buff, take the ferry
from Europe over to the station in
Asia, wander around, then board the
next ferry back to Karaköy. The
intercontinental voyage will cost
less than YTL3.
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A little
gift to the sultan and
people of Istanbul from Kaiser
Wilhelm, who really knew
how to do a guy a favor.
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