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 Kahramanmaras, SE Turkey

 

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The southeastern city of Kahramanmaras is known for its long name, its agriculture, and its ice cream.

For most of the city's long history it was known simply as Marash (mah-RAHSH, alt. 568 meters/1864 feet, pop. 250,000).

During the Turkish War of Independence it fiercely resisted the French occupying armies. In recognition of its citizens' bravery and tenacity, in 1973 it was renamed Kahramanmarash (KAH-rah-mahn-mah-RAHSH, Heroic Marash).

Its earliest known name was Marqasi in Hittite times.

In fact, armies have regularly flattened the town so despite its great age only a few old buildings remain.

Its people raise a lot of cotton, peppers and potatoes, weave cotton textiles, and beat copper into interesting shapes.

If you stop here for a meal or a bed, check out the museum, the Great Mosque (Ulu, or Acemli, Camii) built in 1502, the 14th-century Tas Medrese and Tas Han, and the often-rebuilt citadel.

Whatever you do, eat ice cream. Maras dövme dondurmasi (Marash beaten ice cream) is famous throughout Turkey. Because of the hot climate, it's made with a lot of gum arabic "binder" to keep it from melting. This gives it so much "body" that sellers used to hang it on hooks outside their shops (or so they say....).

Today, vendors in multi-colored traditional Marash costume can be seen on street corners in tourist areas. They scoop ice cream from a cooler with long-handled paddles, plop it in a cone, and serve it with a flourish.


Distances & Travel Times

Adana: 187 km (116 miles) SW, 3 hours

Adiyaman: 164 km (102 miles) E, 3 hours

Ankara: 603 km (375 miles) NW, 9 hours

Antakya: 176 km (109 miles) S, 4 hours

Gaziantep: 80 km (50 miles) SE, 1.25 hours

Istanbul: 1056km (656 miles) NW, 16 hours

Kayseri: 284 km (176 miles) NW, 5 hours

Osmaniye: 113 km (70 miles) SW, 2 hours

Sanliurfa: 218 km (136 miles) SE, 3.25 hours

Southeastern Turkey

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Kahramanmaras, Turkey

Kahramanmaras, with the historic Ulu Cami (Great Mosque, 1502) at the center. Photo courtesy of Mr Kadir Polat.