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Aphrodisias, Turkey

 

Aphrodisias, Turkey

Backpackers Travel, Istanbul, Turkey

 

 

If you don't want to take a guided tour, here's a 12- to 14-day TripKit™ trip through the best of Turkey, including Istanbul, Ephesus, Pamukkale, Konya, Cappadocia and Ankara, that you can plan on your own.

You can easily shorten, lengthen or modify it. Transport is mostly by rental car, but you may also want to travel certain portions by public transportation.

If you'd like to see all the top sights in Turkey in two weeks, and would like the professionals to make all the arrangements for you, look at Classical Turkey. This 14-day small-group tour by Argeus Tourism & Travel begins in Istanbul and visits Ankara, Antalya, Kuşadası and Pamukkale, as well as biblical Cappadocia and the ancient cities of Ephesus, Aphrodisias, Didyma, Hierapolis, Miletus, Priene, Perge, Aspendos, Side and Termessos. More...

TWO WEEKS IN TURKEY

DAY 1 — Arrival in Istanbul

After you arrive, plan on 2 hours to get through the airport, to your hotel, and registered. Even if your flight has been a long one you'll probably want to get out and see something in the city before catching up on your sleep.

(The best way to handle jet lag is not to take a nap but to maintain a normal schedule in the new time zone.)

I'd suggest going to Sultanahmet Square and exploring the Hippodrome, the Blue Mosque, Yerebatan (Basilica) Cistern, and even Ayasofya (closed Monday) if there's time.

Plunging into a new place has an excitement and exhilaration that is among the greatest delights of travel. Your sense of discovery and wonder are at their highest, so revel in the moment: allow yourself an hour or two to just relax in a sidewalk café, taking in the new sights, sounds and smells, overhearing snippets of conversation, and adjusting your psyche to a different world.

If jet lag is a challenge, have an early dinner and a good long sleep to prepare you for a full next day.

DAY 2 - BYZANTINE & OTTOMAN ISTANBUL

Get to Topkapı Palace (9-5, closed Tuesday; stay 2-3 hr) at 8:45 am, buy your tickets, and be among the first to get to the Harem for the tour (9:30 am).

After you've enjoyed Topkapi, see the other sights around Sultanahmet that you didn't get to see yesterday:

Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) (9-4, closed Monday; stay 1 hr). Right next to Topkapı. Don't miss the best mosaics, on the upper level.

Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii) (stay 1/2 hr). Just across the park from Ayasofya, on the Hippodrome. The mosque is closed to visitors for 25 minutes after each call to prayer, and for several hours midday on Friday.

Byzantine Hippodrome (stay 1/2 hr). Enjoy the monuments in the park--if the postcard and carpet vendors will let you!

Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art (9-5, closed Monday; stay 1-2 hr). Right on the Hippodrome across from the Blue Mosque, this is a treasurehouse of Anatolian art.

Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Saraı Sarnıçıi) (9-5; stay 1/2 hr). At the NE end of the Hippodrome beneath the little park.

A Turkish bath (1-3 hr) can be amazingly refreshing after a long day! If not today, then later.

DAY 3 - 19th-CENTURY ISTANBUL

Start with a guided tour of Dolmabahçe Sarayı, the sultan's most lavish palace, then explore the romance of Beyoğlu, the heart of late Ottoman Istanbul, which thrived during the same era. (If you're not wild about ornate palaces, skip Dolmabahçe and go to Taksim Square).

Dolmabahçe Palace (9-4, closed Monday and Thursday; stay 1-2 hrs) With a façade almost a quarter mile (400 meters) long, this is the mother of all Ottoman palaces, and a must-see if you're into magnificence. After touring the palace, take a taxi uphill to...

Taksim Square From this hub of modern Istanbul, go downhill to Dolmabahçe Palace or north to the Military Museum.

Istiklal Caddesi (Grande Rue de Péra; 1-2 hr walking tour) Lots to see along the main boulevard of 19th-century Istanbul: grand old embassy buildings, the Pera Palace Hotel, lots of boutiques, and even a whirling dervish hall. Plenty of restaurants for lunch. Walk downhill from Tünel Square at the southwestern end of Istiklal Caddesi to...

Galata Tower (9-7, discount on Monday; stay 1/2 to 1 hr) Best views of the city from this Genoese cone-topped stone tower. Continue downhill to Galata (Karaköy) Square and...

Galata Bridge (stay 1/2 hr) Cross the bridge over the Golden Horn which links Old and New Istanbul, taking in the view. At the southern end in Eminönü, take the Bağcılar tram back to Sultanahmet.

DAY 4 - Istanbul to SELÇUK (EPHESUS)

Take an early morning flight to Izmir's Adnan Menderes Airport (ADM). Rent a car at the airport, hire a taxi, or catch a bus or train to get to Selçuk (62 km/39 miles, 1-1/4 hours), the town next to Ephesus.

Arrive in Selçuk by 2:30 or 3 pm and check in at your hotel. Visit Ephesus Museum, St. John Basilica, Isa Bey Mosque (you can walk to them all). Dinner and overnight.

DAY 5 - EPHESUS, APHRODISIAS, PAMUKKALE

In the morning, explore the ruins of Ephesus (2 to 3 hours), then drive to Aphrodisias (143 km/89 miles, 2 hours); lunch either before leaving Selçuk or at Aphrodisias. Tour the ruins of Aphrodisias (1-1/2 to 2 hours), drive to the ancient mineral-water spa of Pamukkale (123 km/76 miles, 1-1/2 hours), arriving before dark. Settle in at a hotel in Pamukkale Town or Karahayıt.

DAY 6 - PAMUKKALE, drive to KONYA

Enjoy a swim in Pamukkale's mineral waters (perhaps in the Sacred Pool itself), and explore the ruins of the Roman health resort of Hierapolis.

After lunch, drive from Pamukkale by Lake Eğirdir to Konya (450 km, 280 miles, 7 hours). (Yes, it's a long drive, but the countryside is interesting, and it saves you backtracking to Izmir's ADM airport for a flight via Istanbul to Cappadocia.)

DAY 7 - KONYA, SILK ROAD, IHLARA, ÜRGÜP

Visit Konya's whirling dervish Mevlana Museum, and the Seljuk Turkish monuments (1200s) on and around Konya's Alaettin Hill during the morning (2 to 3 hours), then drive east along the ancient Silk Road to Sultanhanı (110 km, 68 miles) for a brief look at the grandest of Seljuk Turkish caravanserais (built in 1229), and lunch.

Continue through Aksaray (42 km, 26 miles, 40 minutes). If you want to explore the Ihlara (Peristrema) Valley, turn right (south) 11 km east of Aksaray for Selime, Belisırma and Ihlara (23 km). Spend 2 or 3 hours at Ihlara, then head east via Güzelyurt to Derinkuyu to see its underground city, though if you don't watch your time carefully on this day you may arrive after it is closed for the day (5 pm). From Derinkuyu drive north to Nevşehir, then east to Ürgüp.

If you don't want to see Ihlara, from Aksaray go east along the Silk Road to Nevşehir (65 km, 40 miles, 1 hour). There are more Seljuk caravanserais along this road if you're interested, particularly the Ağzıkarahan 10 km (6 miles) east of Aksaray. As you continue east you'll pass the ruined-then-restored Tepesidelik Han 13 km (8 miles) east, and the Alay Han, 33 km (21 miles) east of Aksaray.

If you're interested in a hot-air balloon flight over Cappadocia, make your reservations as soon as you arrive, or—better yet—several days before you arrive.

DAY 8 - GÖREME, ZELVE, AVANOS, UÇHISAR

Visit the Göreme Open Air Museum in the morning (2 to 3 hours), then drive to the Zelve Valley for more cave-church explorations. Have lunch in either Göreme Town or Avanos. If you have time, also visit Uçhisar.

DAY 9 - HOT-AIR BALLOON, UNDERGROUND CITIES, drive to Ankara

Get up and out before dawn to fly in a hot-air balloon over Cappadocia. After you land, have breakfast, then explore more of Cappadocia. If you didn't get a chance to visit the Underground Cities during your drive from Konya, do it today.

In the afternoon, drive to Ankara (308 km, 191 miles, 4 hours) for a quick visit on your way back to Istanbul. Find your hotel, and turn in your rental car.

(To shorten this itinerary by a day, turn in your rental car in Ürgüp and take the evening flight from Kayseri to Istanbul.)

DAY 10 - ANKARA

Visit the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations (closed Monday; 1 hour), then take a walk through the Hisar (citadel) just uphill from it, and have lunch in a restaurant in one of the old restored Hisar houses. After lunch, take a taxi to the Anıtkabir (Atatürk's mausoleum).

You can travel to Istanbul by any of several means:

- Take a bus (fast, frequent, cheap, comfortable, convenient)

- Fly (fastest, but relatively inconvenient and possibly expensive)

- Take a train (cheap, most comfortable, and relatively fast if you take the high-speed train)

- Drive your rental car (relatively expensive and tiring)

My favorite train is the Ankara Ekspresi, an all-sleeping-car train that departs at 22:30 (10:30 pm) and arrives at Istanbul's Haydarpaşa Station on the Asian side of the Bosphorus at 08:05 am the next morning.

DAY 11 - ISTANBUL

Unless you're coming by sleeper train, today you get to sleep in! Enjoy a late breakfast on the rooftop terrace of your hotel with a view of the sea (most hotels have them), but take the tram to the Eminönü ferry docks to arrive by 10 or 10:15 am to get a seat on the Bosphorus tour ferry. Leave the boat at Sarıyer, have lunch, then take taxis south along the European shore of the Bosphorus stopping at Büyükdere to see the Sadberk Hanım Museum, and at Bebek to see the fortress of Rumelihisarı. Have afternoon tea in the shore village of Ortaköy, with its baroque waterside mosque and old Ottoman houses.

In the evening, enjoy a Turkish bath.

DAY 12 - ISTANBUL EXCURSION

If you have an extra day, take a one-day or overnight excursion:

Edirne: Comfortable day-long excursion by bus or car to see the fine old mosques and lively bazaars of the second Ottoman capital, delightfully free of tourist crowds. More...

Bursa: Zoom south across the Sea of Marmara in a catamaran to see this first capital of the Ottoman Empire, with its fine old mosques, silk weaving trade, and thermal spas; make it an overnight and see Iznik (Nicaea) as well. More...

Çanakkale-Gallipoli: Long day-trip by bus or car to see the Dardanelles, the Gallipoli battlefields, and even ancient Troy; possible in a very long day, but better as an overnight.

DAY 13 - ISTANBUL SHOPPING

It's not a bad idea to leave most of your shopping until the last day so you won't have to lug your purchases around with you.

Start the day by seeing the brilliant Byzantine mosaics in the Kariye Museum out by the gigantic city walls.

Spend most of the day in the Grand Bazaar and the Egyptian Market, or in the boutiques and antique shops on and off Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoğlu.

In the evening, take a taxi to Beyoğlu for dinner and perhaps an evening in one of the small cafes or music clubs.

DAY 14 - DEPARTURE


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Turkey: Bright Sun, Strong Tea, by Tom Brosnahan

Great intro to travel in Turkey, good airplane & bedtime reading...
 
Cenotaph of Mevlana Jelaleddin Rumi, Konya, Turkey
Above, Konya: the elaborate gilded tomb of Mevlana Jelaleddin Rumi, founder of the whirling dervishes.

Below, a fisherman near Bodrum.





Fisherman, Bodrum, Turkey

 
Alaçati, Aegean Turkey

Basic itinerary:

(Boldface = overnight stop)

Day 1 - Arrive in Istanbul

Day 2 - Byzantine & Ottoman Istanbul

Day 3 - 19th-century Istanbul

Day 4 - Fly to Ephesus & Visit

Day 5 - Aphrodisias & Pamukkale

Day 6 - Drive via Eğirdir to Konya

Day 7 - Silk Road, Ihlara, Underground Cities, Cappadocia

Day 8 - Cappadocia

Day 9 - Ankara

Day 10 - Istanbul

Day 11 - Bosphorus Cruise, Istanbul

Day 12 - Excursion from Istanbul

Day 13 - Shopping in Istanbul

Day 14 - Departure