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 5-Day Drive: Ephesus-Cappadocia

 

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"We want to see Ephesus, Pamukkale and Cappadocia, but we only have five days (after attending a conference in Istanbul). What's the best way to do it?" asked two female travelers from California, one of them in her 70s.

"We're relatively adventurous travelers," they said. "We don't do dangerous things, but neither do we need hand-holding."

In a private consultation, I proposed a five-day driving itinerary: fly from Istanbul to Izmir, pick up a rental car, see Ephesus, Aphrodisias and Pamukkale, then drive east through Turkey's lake country to Konya and Cappadocia, then fly back to Istanbul.

(If you don't want to make the long drive on Day 3, you can fly from Izmir to Kayseri (for Cappadocia), but then you miss the lake country and Konya. Here's the alternative 5-day fly-drive itinerary.)

If you want to do the drive, make reservations as early as possible for the services you'll need. (Here are good Turkish travel agents who can make all the arrangements for you if you'd rather not worry about them, and here's my list of recommended licensed private guides.)

YOUR RESERVATIONS:

1. Flights on Day 1 from Istanbul to Izmir, and on Day 5 from Kayseri to Istanbul.

2. Rental car from Izmir's Adnan Menderes Airport, on Day 1, to be returned in Ürgüp, Cappadocia, in late afternoon on Day 5.

3. Hotels for Days 1 through 4 (unless you'd rather make these reservations yourself.)

4. Hot-air balloon flight reservation in Cappadocia (if you want this adventure). Reserve your places for the morning of Day 5. More...

5. Turkish Airlines shuttle bus reservation from Cappadocia to Kayseri's Erkilet Airport for your flight to Istanbul.

Hint: Argeus Tourism & Travel is an official ticket agency for Turkish Airlines as well as for AtlasJet, Fly Air, Onur Air, and Sun Express, and also operates the Turkish Airlines shuttle buses between Cappadocia and Kayseri's Erkilet Airport.

Also, Argeus (based in Ürgüp, Cappadocia) has a particularly strong relationship with Turkey's best car rental companies, and many hotels, and so is particularly well positioned to make all of the reservations you'll need for this itinerary. More...

YOUR ITINERARY:

Day 1 - Monday: Fly Istanbul-Izmir, Drive to Selçuk/Ephesus

Morning flight from Istanbul to Izmir (ADM), arrive by noon or earlier; lunch snack at the airport, or carry a picnic lunch, or stave off hunger until you arrive in Selçuk. Pick up your reserved rental car at the airport and drive to Selçuk (62 km/39 miles, 1-1/4 hours), the town next to Ephesus.

Arrive in Selçuk by 14:30 or 15:00 (2:30 or 3 pm), check in at your hotel (recommended: Hotel Kalehan, an inn with several small buildings grouped around a small swimming pool; rooms decorated with crafts; good restaurant with vegetables from the hotel's own organic garden). Visit Ephesus Museum, Saint John Basilica, Isa Bey Mosque (you can walk to them all from the hotel). Dinner and overnight.

Day 2 - Tuesday: Ephesus, Drive to Aphrodisias & Pamukkale

In the morning, explore the ruins of Ephesus (2 to 3 hours), then drive to Aphrodisias (143 km/89 miles, 2 hours); lunch either before leaving Selçuk or at Aphrodisias. Tour the ruins of Aphrodisias (1-1/2 to 2 hours), drive to Pamukkale (123 km/76 miles, 1-1/2 hours), arriving before dark. Settle in at a hotel in Pamukkale Town or Karahayit.

Day 3 - Wednesday: Pamukkale, Drive to Konya

After lunch, drive from Pamukkale through Turkey's lake country to Konya (450 km, 280 miles, 7 hours); overnight in Konya. Hotel Balikcilar, simple (almost spartan), modern, has the best location: right across the street from the Mevlana Museum in the city center. It's also one of the few hotels to serve alcoholic beverages in this conservative Muslim city.

Day 4 - Thursday: Konya, Silk Road, (Ihlara), Underground Cities, Ürgüp (Cappadocia)

In the morning, visit the whirling dervish Mevlana Museum and other Seljuk Turkish monuments (1200s) on and around Konya's Alaettin Hill (2 to 3 hours), then drive east along the ancient Silk Road to Sultanhan (110 km, 68 miles) for a brief look at the grandest of Seljuk Turkish caravanserais (built in 1229), and lunch.

Continue through Aksaray (42 km, 26 miles, 40 minutes). If you want to explore the Ihlara (Peristrema) Valley, turn right (south) 11 km east of Aksaray for Selime, Belisirma and Ihlara (23 km).

Spend 2 or 3 hours at Ihlara, then head east to Derinkuyu to see its underground city, though if you don't watch your time carefully on this day you may arrive after it is closed for the day (17:00/5 pm).

From Derinkuyu drive north to Nevsehir, then east to Ürgüp.

If you don't want to see the Ihlara Valley, from Aksaray go east along the ancient Silk Road to Nevsehir (65 km, 40 miles, 1 hour). There are more Seljuk Turkish caravanserais along this road if you're interested, particularly the Agzikarahan just east of Aksaray.

Beyond Nevsehir, in Ürgüp, settle in at the Esbelli Evi, the first and still my favorite of Cappadocia's cave hotels.

Day 5 - Friday: Cappadocia, Fly Kayseri-Istanbul

Rise before dawn for your hot-air balloon flight (if you've reserved this thrill-of-a-lifetime experience). You'll be back at your hotel in time for breakfast.

Visit the Göreme Open Air Museum in the morning (no guide necessary; 2 to 3 hours). Then drive to the nearby Zelve Valley, Avanos and/or Uçhisar, exploring Cappadocia until it's time to turn in your rental car.

You could drive to Kayseri's Erkilet Airport and turn in your rental car there, saving yourself the cost of the THY/Argeus Tourism shuttle bus, but I don't recommend driving to the airport. You'll have to leave earlier, take the chance of getting lost (the route can be confusing), and deal with Turkish city traffic in Kayseri, probably at rush hour, and maybe in the dark. Better to take the shuttle, believe me.

Fly to Istanbul and return to your hotel there.

If this seems like too much driving, look at my 5-Day Fly-Drive Itinerary.


5-Day Fly-Drive Itinerary: Ephesus, Pamukkale & Cappadocia

Getting from Pamukkale to Cappadocia

Getting from Istanbul to Cappadocia

1 to 5 Days in Turkey

6 to 10 Days in Turkey

16 to 23 Days in Turkey

24 to 30+ Days in Turkey

Recommended Licensed Private Guides

Recommended Itineraries

Special Interest Trips

Other Sample Itineraries

Custom Itinerary Planning

 

Mevlana (Rumi) Tomb, Konya, Turkey

Above, tomb of Mevlana Jelaleddin Rumi, founder of the Whirling Dervishes, in Konya.

Below, many-breasted Cybele in the Ephesus Museum.

Cybele, Ephesus, Turkey