Thank you to everyone on this site, and especially Tom, of course. Our 12 day trip to Turkey would not have been such a success without everyone's input and postings. I will list our general and specific suggestions....
We enjoyed Istanbul, Cirali, and Goreme but did not like Antalya (too hot, too touristy). I don't need to comment on how great Istanbul and Goreme are since others have covered that in the past.
Our off the beaten track trips were to Edirne and Kiyikoy.
Edirne is a really nice sized city, with great mosques, a facade of an old synagogue, and lots of old Ottoman buildings to see. Recommended as a day-trip or two days if you want to spread it out and relax a bit in the many tea gardens.
Kiyikoy on the Black Sea, not too far from Edirne was an excellent destination, with two beaches, one on each side of the village. It is popular amongst Turkish tourists, but we were the only non-Turks there. There are two good fish restaurants, a tea garden, and a lively fishing industry. There is also a carved-out monastery down the river about fifteen minutes from town. We stayed at the Hulya Pansiyon for 10 YTL per person a night for a plain room and shared bathroom, but lovely balcony/terrace.
Cirali is a great, great place to see the Mediterannean coast. We took a day-long boat trip which turned out to be a beautiful and relaxing day. It is a small, laid-back place without all of the concrete that you will see elsewhere along the coast. There are chickens everywhere!
Side Hotel/Pension, Istanbul
-highly recommended with nice rooms, and truly wonderful staff.
-not recommended unless you are very much into the backpacker scene. Terrible room for two.
Onur Hotel (run by Mavi Guesthouse people)
-OK, but not great service, rooms not as clean as could be.
Cappadocia: Kelebek Pansiyon is a wonderful place to stay. Highly recommended. We arrived after an overnight bus, and they had a "rest" room with a bed and a shower available even though it was 7 AM.
Cirali: For an inexpensive and pleasant pansiyon, try the "La Provencal" on the road leading to the Chimaera. It is about a two minute walk from the beach, with bicycles, and lovely gardens. It is run by a French woman and her Turkish husband, who both speak French.
LOVED borek, especially spinach borek. Really, really miss it.
LOVED the fruit! The grapes, the peaches, the dried apricots.....mmmmm....
LOVED the freshly squeezed orange juice. We had at least one or two glasses a day.
Ate well in Istanbul, but not as well in really touristy places (Goreme, Cirali).
We took two overnight buses - they were pretty comfortable, but we were glad that we had brought sleeping aids, earplugs and eyemasks. Make sure that when you book your seats you don't get the very last row of the bus where the seats don't recline.
Volkan was our favourite bus company - they served tea, soda and cake!
We also took public transportation to and from the airport in Istanbul, which was pretty straightforward, and a lot cheaper than taxis or shuttles.
I'm happy to expand on anything....